France
Paris
Guy Savoy. Needs little introduction, but suffice to say that in early 2019, the food is just as fantastic as ever. The wine list is outstanding and not overpriced, and perhaps most surprising of all, the service is charming and relaxed. Feb 2019.
Le Villaret. In slightly cramped quarters out there in the Marais, this is a wonderful place for the wine lover. The long-serving sommelier carefully holds back vintages of Burgundy, ensuring that there is always white and red Burgundy with at least some age ready to be poured, and at excellent prices. Good food and charming service, but the wine is the star of the show. April 2022.
Carré des Feuillants. Somehow this didn’t quite convince as much as Guy Savoy. The food was executed very well but lacked a bit of soul. The wine list is fantastic, especially for Burgundy, and especially for older white Burgundy. Ask for your vintage of Cognac or Armaganac to finish - they will find it for you. Feb 2019. [REPORTED PERMANENTLY CLOSED AFTER COVID]
La Tour d’Argent. A strange experience all round. Service was…poor, unfortunately, although the sommeliers are excellent. The food was functional but did not hit the heights. The famous duck comes pink but the accompaniments are too sweet for a really successful dish. The wine list though - what an experience! Verticals of every great wine you can imagine, with very little uptick in prices the older you get. Prices are more than fair. Every wine lover must come here on pilgrimage at least once in their life, and ask for a tour of the cellars after dinner. Feb 2019.
Le Bon Georges. Not famous, but a very satisfying, classic bistro with a good wine list. An excellent choice for lunch. Choose their steak, sourced from one of France’s best suppliers. Feb 2019.
Le Pré Catelan. In a beautiful, forested location in the Bois de Boulogne, this is a beautiful dining room at lunch time. The food is excellent, the wine list varied and fairly priced, and perhaps surprisingly in a restaurant of this formality and stature, the service is charming. Recommended. Feb 2019.
Bordeaux and around
La Table de Catusseau (Pomerol): there are few stand-out dining options in the heart of the Right Bank vineyards, but this is a charming, bustling, high quality bistro experience. The food is traditional and well executed and the wine list is acceptable. Be sure to make a reservation - this fills up rapidly with winemakers and their families. April 2019.
Au Bistrot (Bordeaux): the part of town may not Bordeaux’s nicest, but it’s worth making the trip to this excellent, wine-focused restaurant. Simple surroundings, charming, delicious, inexpensive food coupled to a good wine list featuring many up and coming French winemakers (rather than classics). You will have to discuss with the waiters though - the good wines are not, apparently, recorded in any written form! April 2019.
Chez Hortense (Lège-Cap-Ferret): Cap-Ferret is where the Bordelais vacation; a sweet fishing town on the narrow strip of sand between the Bassin d’Arcachon and the Atlantic. And this is where they dine. If you don’t like local food, or fish, this is not your spot. If you do, and it’s a warm day, you will have a glorious experience soaking up the sun, the relaxed, seaside atmosphere and of course, the simple, delicious fresh fish dishes. April 2019.
Le Lion d’Or (Arcins, Margaux): the Left Bank is a wasteland when it comes to restaurants, and this is one of only two or three good options. The food is delicious and classic Bordeaux, with an emphasis on local products such as lamprey, asparagus and various river fish. The wine list is WOEFUL and seems designed to encourage patrons to bring their own, which everyone does (the nearest decent wine store is La Cave d’Ulysses in Margaux). April 2019.
Le Bontemps (Cussac, near St. Julien): a really excellent lunch option in a difficult area for restaurants. Inexpensive with delightfully flavoursome dishes. Wine list limited. April 2022.
Aux Quatre Coins du Vin (Bordeaux): in the attractive pedestrianised area of central Bordeaux, this is an excellent wine bar, with wines available by the glass from machines and there is also a wide ranging bottle list. Food is simple bistro fare served by a very friendly crew. June 2021 and April 2023.
Point Rouge (Bordeaux): in an unprepossessing part of town, this odd hybrid of cocktail bar/dance club/relatively high end restaurant surprises with its solid food and remarkable wine list, packed full of gems from Champagne, Burgundy and elsewhere, all for outstanding prices. Not to be missed for the wine lover. April 2022.
Le Sobre Chartrons (Bordeaux): excellent small retailer in the Chartrons district, right by the river, with tables and wine bar food. Convivial, relaxed, nice hospitality. Simple but enjoyable. April 2023.
L’Univerre (Bordeaux): probably the best of Bordeaux’s wine bars. An extensive list with excellent, fresh, creative food. April 2023.
Hotel Normandie (Bordeaux): a simple, inexpensive but solid option in the very heart of Bordeaux. Decent breakfast. Park in Parking Tourny. June 2021.
Chablis
Au Fil du Zinc. Chablis’ only really good restaurant is just that: really good. The Japanese team in the kitchen produce delicate, fresh examples of French classics. Fabien oversees a modest sized but excellent wine list. There’s a one bottle limit on the reserve list (where the very inexpensive Raveneau and Dauvissat lives) but the rest of the list has plenty of excellent options from Chablis. Feb 2019. Nov 2019 update: the brilliant Japanese chef has returned to Japan, and a Parisian has been brought in to replace him, but according to my contacts, the food does not hit the same heights it used to. I could not verify personally because it was closed the week I was there. Dec 2021: if possible, the food seems to have got even better here! This is one of Burgundy’s best and most joyful restaurants.
Les Trois Bourgeons. This one (Japanese) man show is a solid option in Chablis, with good if not great food and a modest but solid wine list. Usefully, it is open the nights that Au Fil du Zinc is not. April 2022.
Hostellerie des Clos. The restaurant in the hotel of the same name is Chablis’s most upscale option. The formality and service feel as if they are from another era, and are a bit ponderous. The food is adequate, but the evening drags. I think the best option here is to buy a bottle or two off the outstanding restaurant wine list in the bar area as an aperitif, then go elsewhere for dinner. Nov 2019.
Bistro des Grands Crus. The other restaurant of the Hostellerie des Clos, this is an excellent place for an easy, casual lunch or dinner. The food is classic and good. Ask for the full wine list from the Hostellerie restaurant, packed full of mature gems at low prices. April 2022.
Le Maufoux. This is the new Chablis outpost of Beaune’s Le Maufoux and Meursault’s Le Soufflot, and the recipe is the same: an extremely affordable, high quality wine list; classic Burgundy bistro food well prepared and no fuss service. Great stuff. Dec 2021.
Chablis Wine Not. Another recent new edition to the village, this bustling wine bar is a delight: simple bistro food, relaxed service and an excellent wine list. Some bottles (not the rare ones) also available for retail purchase. Dec 2021.
Cote d’Or and around
Auprès du Clocher. In Pommard, this is a lovely choice for the most classic of classic Burgundian food. That means the dishes are rich and full, but beautifully done. The wine list has numerous rare gems, including older vintages and impossible to find producers. Beware that not everything that is listed is available - check with the waiters before getting your hopes up too high. Feb 2019.
Chez Guy. In Gevrey-Chambertin, more quite rich Burgundian classics prepared well. The wine list is good, especially for Gevrey-Chambertin, but there are also several good Roumier options. Good spot for lunch, no reservations required - just arrive before 12.30pm if you are a larger group to ensure a table. Feb 2019.
Le Complexe de Gevrey (Gevrey-Chambertin) is the most unexpected spot for a good Burgundian lunch: in the municipal sports’ centre. While energetic types play indoor tennis over the wall, you can dine on a very inexpensive three course, classically rich, Burgundian set menu and a simple wine list. Packed with locals - get there before 12.30. Dec 2021.
Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau (Levernois, just south of Beaune). The bistro option in this high end hotel. There is also a fine dining restaurant (not sampled). The bistro is solid but not worth a special trip. The wine list is full of grands crus at standard prices. Dec 2021.
Aux Terrasses. In Tournus, 45 minutes drive south of Beaune, in the Maconnais region. A quiet part of town opposite a supermarket is an unlikely place to find a one star Michelin restaurant, but that’s where Aux Terrasses is located. The food is typically Michelin - light, inventive, playful but very successful. The wine list feels a little picked over now and mostly only younger vintages remain. Make sure you get the right type of glassware for your wine - they can sometimes err here. Feb 2019.
Lameloise (Chagny, half an hour south of Beaune). Incontestably Burgundy’s best restaurant, as its three Michelin stars indicate. It lives up to the billing though, with dishes of great beauty and imagination. 80e lunch menu. Wine list is expansive but with typical 3* prices. There are good by the glass options. Impeccable service. Dec 2021.
La Ferme de la Ruchotte (Bligny-sur-Oche, outside Beaune). An experience every visitor to Burgundy should have once. An organic farm managed by Fred, who also cooks the food and presents it in a dining room that feels more like a living room. Everything in the kitchen comes from the farm, and there’s only one set of options for lunch. But outstanding, compelling options these are - gorgeous and satisfying food. The wine list is limited; there’s a little Roulot and Dujac, but you are going here for the whole experience rather than the wine. Don’t miss seeing the pigs and other animals close up on your way out. Feb 2019.
Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet). The restaurant in the hotel of the same name is a very good, reliable option for a hotel restaurant and a must if you are staying there (often Le Montrachet is the only option in the region in the winter months for lodging). They specialize in chicken, which is excellent; and for some inexplicable reason, the fantastic Chablis list is tucked away behind red Burgundy in the wine list. Do not miss it, for this is where some of the best options lie. But the list as a whole is very solid with good options including older vintages in red. Feb 2019.
L’Estimanet des Meix (Puligny-Montrachet). A good bistro lunch option in otherwise sleepy Puligny, full of vineyard workers enjoying a well priced lunch. Dec 2021.
Bissoh (Beaune). The thought of some Japanese food during an extended trip to France is enough to make one salivate, and Bissoh delivers beautifully prepared prix fixe menus for very fair prices. The wine list has a lot of classic as well as up and coming Burgundy producers, but the wine prices are firm, to say the least. Ask to say hi to Yuzu, the benign old dog. Nov 2019.
L’Expression (Beaune). A relatively new restaurant making waves in Beaune for its fresh, well made dishes with high quality ingredients. The poulet de bresse is outstanding. A moderately sized, fairly priced wine list. Reservations essential. Dec 2021.
Le Maufoux (Beaune). Opened in 2019, a more casual, bistro style sister restaurant to Le Soufflot in Meursault (see below). This is probably best as a lunch option - inexpensive, simple but delicious local dishes that avoid the Burgundian tendency towards heaviness. The wine list features well priced, young vintages from the region. Nov 2019.
Le Soufflot (Meursault). In my most recent trip, this was the most impressive place we dined. The set dinner menu for 50e is ridiculous value for a whole string of small, imaginative dishes. The wine list, while strongly slanted to young vintages, has many excellent producers for extremely attractive prices. As usual, Chablis is a source of particularly good value, as is Champagne. Nov 2019. Nov 2021: as good as ever with a fabulous wine list. Gougères to die for!
Caves Madeleine (Beaune). This Beaune wine trade institution is going strong, with excellent, creative food that happily strays a little from the standard Burgundian dishes. On our visit, service was hit and miss and slow, and the wine list is firmly priced. Nonetheless, I prefer it to Ma Cuisine, which is the rival for title of most classic place in Beaune. Reservations essential in this small space. Nov 2019. Dec 2021: the cramped space that makes me feel a little claustrophobic, but that notwithstanding, the food is excellent and the wine list broad and fairly priced, even if no bargains. Enjoyable.
Le Bout du Monde (Beaune). Beaune’s best wine list lives incongruously in this smoky pub. For outstanding prices, the full range of great producers and wines are available here, along with rare spirits and decadent plates to share. Unexpected, to say the least! Dec 2021.
L’Arche des Vins (Beaune). This is the home to Burgundy’s young people; expect a lively crowd in a casual setting, drinking incongruously good bottles. More or less essential if you are in town. March 2024.
Maison du Colombier (Beaune). Another wonderful Beaune wine bar, the only rival to L’Arche des Vins. Lovely people and an outstanding list (although with few bargains). Standard wine bar food. A lovely place to sit outside on a summer evening, opposite the church. March 2024.
Brasserie le Monge (Beaune). Very competent food, speedy service and all day hours make this is a very useful option. Certainly not fine dining, but featuring all the French classics. March 2024.
Champagne
Les Avisés. Avize. The restaurant of the hotel of the same name owned by Domaine Jacques Selosse, and on the same site as the winery in the heart of the Cote des Blancs. A fantastic place to dine. A bright, modern, well decorated dining room with excellent food and an outstanding wine list, led by the champagne options. And yes, you can buy Selosse for good prices on the list (the rose was 230e when we visited) but do not even think of asking to buy any to take away with you!! April 2022.
Le Millénaire. Reims. Well priced prix fixe options abound at this Reims classic, but I got the impression the restaurant was living off its name a little. Slightly stuffy, overly formal decor and service. Good but not great food. Decent but not exceptional wine list. Needs updating. Feb 2019.
Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage. Reims. Cozy spot in the centre of town with an outstanding wine list by the bottle, and also many good choices by the glass. Friendly service. Unfortunately seats at the bar are not comfortable and the lighting is too bright at night. But worth it all for that wine list - a thing of beauty, especially the champagne choices, where every good grower is represented. Reservations required. April 2022.
The Glue Pot. Reims. One of the more bizarre places you find yourself in as a wine lover. This is effectively a British pub from the 1970s, serving bar food with an interior whose every surface is bright scarlet. 1980s movies play silently on TVs. The food is limited - stick to the burgers or steaks as a safe option - but all is worth it for the champagne list. Hard/impossible to find choices such as Jerome Prevost, Georges Laval and Roses de Jeanne are all here, and at giveaway prices. April 2022.
Café du Palais. Reims. Country food in lavish bistro surroundings. Hearty plates of cold cuts and local cheeses, followed by pastas of various kinds. A fun, timeless French lunch experience (not sure if they are open for dinner). Some good wine options. Feb 2019.
Brasserie at Les Crayères. Reims. If you’re not feeling up to the 10 course tasting menu at the main restaurant at this luxury hotel (Reims’ best lodging option), the brasserie offers prix fixe dinners for around 50e. Situated in the garden of the chateau, a nice lunch option although probably not worth going out of your way to. Feb 2019.
Sacré Bistro. Epernay. Simple bistro food for low prices in a casual setting, but elevated by an outstanding champagne list with knowledgeable wine service. Epernay has limited dining options - for lunch, this is one of the best. Feb 2019.
Italy
Naples
Cicciotto Trattoria dal 1942. A taxi ride outside town, but well worth it for a beautiful quay-side location and outstanding fish. Wine is uncomplicated and inexpensive. June 2019.
La Cantina del Triunfo. In an undemonstrative location one block back from the waterfront, this is a hidden gem - an excellent wine list with some older gems on the back pages, and the food is prepared with care and humanity - the chef came out to ask me whether everything was ok! June 2019.
Venice
Do’Mori is a brilliant cicchetti bar near the Rialto Bridge for lunch/a snack (closes at 7.30pm). It’s next door to the heavily trafficked All’Arco but if you can’t get in there, this is a great option with generous service and an excellent list of wines by the glass. June 2019.
Osteria di Santa Marina - ambitious, well executed food in a charming piazza. Wine list is mostly younger vintages but fairly priced. Downside is that it is popular with (mostly American) tourists. Don’t come here if you don’t want to know what is going on in New York!
Verona
Trattoria al Pompiere is a classic, traditional Veronese trattoria. Solid food, very good wine list, a wonderful, homely setting right in the middle of downtown and charming service. A really fun experience. March 2022
Locanda di Castelvecchio as the name suggests, right by the impressive old castle. An almost comically traditional establishment with a meat cart (wheeled around the restaurant) that has to be seen to be believed. Solid wine list, lovely service, just quite heavy food - difficult to contemplate in warmer months but fun in winter.
Casa Perbellini an intimate, michelin starred experience, with the usual theatre, choreography and finesse that involves. In spite of being a local celebrity, Signor Perbellini the head chef is a consummately modest man, and makes sure to chat with all the guests. Book about one month in advance. Good wine list, if not the cheapest. In the spectacular San Zeno plaza - make sure to check out the church if you’re staying anywhere nearby.
L’Oste Scuro is a fantastic fish restaurant; exquisitely fresh and well prepared dishes with an inexpensive wine list in a comfortable setting. A great place.
Milan
Osteria Brunello: an excellent place for a classic Milanese dinner - saffron risotto followed by cotoletta milanese. The wine list - as the name implies - is focused heavily on Brunello di Montalcino. Prices are inexpensive, producers are good, and there is a smattering of older wines, well stored. June 2021.
CIZ Cantina e Cucina: an excellent wine bar, 15 minutes’ walk from the Duomo. Very good choice of by the glass wines - just tell them what you would like, they’ll probably have it! Solid food. June 2021.
Tuscany
Antico Ristoro di Cambi (Florence): a traditional and time honoured Florence restaurant, for straightforward but well executed Florentine classics and inexpensive Chianti. Thoroughly enjoyable. Reservations essential - beloved by locals. June 2021.
Castello La Leccia (Castellina in Chianti): this stunning hilltop hotel has luxurious rooms in an idyllic Tuscan setting. It also offers excellent dining, particularly during the summer when you can sit outside and drink in the view. The wine list is small but fairly priced, and the estate’s own Chianti wines are good. June 2021.
Mangiando Mangiando (Greve in Chianti): in Greve’s main square, this is an excellent lunch option for straightforward but well prepared food, inexpensive wine and people watching. June 2021.
Il Giglio (Montalcino): a Montalcino classic. This family-run hotel and restaurant offers excellent food and a huge wine list including back vintages of Brunello. A must-visit when in the area and probably the best option in Montalcino’s centre. June 2021.
Piedmont - Barolo and Barbaresco
Castello di Sinio (Sinio): American owned and populated solely by American visitors, this was among the best food we ate all week in Piedmont. In a remarkable setting - a hotel and restaurant in a hilltop castle at the top of the village of Sinio makes it a memorable evening. The food was local, authentic and delicious during truffle season. The wine list is solid, although I wish they would not store the wines in the dining room at room temperature! Reservations essential. October 2019
Antica Torre (Barbaresco): this is the restaurant at the top of the village, by the church and the Produtorri del Barbaresco. Famed for its Insalata Russa, the Vitello Tonnato is also excellent, and the pastas are perfect. The wine list offers mostly young vintages, but the prices are very fair. Particularly wonderful in the summer when you can eat in the little square by the church. Reservations essential, particularly in truffle season. October 2019
La Piola (Alba): this trattoria is owned by Ceretto and showcases their wines - no bad thing, because they are very good - especially the Arneis and Barbaresco. The Insalata Mista was the best we had, and the pasta delicious. Busy, bustling and noisy, it was packed in truffle season. October 2019
Antico Podere Tota Virginia (Baudana, Serralunga d’Alba): usually I avoid hotel restaurants, but Tota Virginia is a great choice (and much better than the hotel, which offers simple accommodations and limited Wifi other than in public areas). In the summer, the terrace offers stunning views of Monforte d’Alba and surrounds, and even at other times, the floor to ceiling windows suffice. The food is very good, and the set menu is recommended. The wine list is impressively large with fair prices and all the best producers represented. June 2021.
Vinoteca Centro Storico (Serralunga d’Alba): just below the castle in Serralunga is this wine institution of the region. Owner Alessio and his wife turn out solid to very good food in a small space with an outstanding wine list, including excellent grower champagne, Burgundy and the best producers from Piedmont. Excellent inexpensive by the glass choices too. Reservations essential (call, do not email - Alessio speaks English). June 2021
Osteria Veglio (La Morra): towards the bottom of the road up to La Morra is this roadside restaurant which offers excellent, even ambitious, local fare and a good wine list (albeit younger vintages only). There is a good value 38 euro set menu for dinner. The main downside is the seating: the chairs are incredibly uncomfortable and offer no back support whatsoever - consider this seriously if you suffer from a bad back!
L’Ermo della Gasprina (La Morra): a fantastic choice, favoured by winemakers. Apparently not very well known, even in the region, the food is outstanding and there are views to match. Really excellent. October 2023
Repubblica (Perno): a classic Langhe restaurant with excellent renditions of all the local specialities. Slightly unusual but very welcome is the outstanding Champagne list. Excellent. October 2023
Germany
Schanz Restaurant (Piesport, Mosel): a stunning three star Michelin restaurant in the middle Mosel. A beautiful space is the setting for stunning, imaginative food, superb service and an excellent and fairly priced wine list. Worth a trip to the Mosel just to go. July 2023.
Romantik Jugendstihotel Bellevue (Traben-Trabach, Mosel): is the best place in town for dinner. It offers classic German fare but happily, with a light touch. The wine list is good. The fin de siècle bar should not be missed either. UPDATE JULY 2023: A more uninspired experience time, with underwhelming food and lackluster service. Die Graifen is an alternative for dinner in the same town, a homely restaurant with solid food at a wine estate. Wines are cheap and very adequate. Sept 2019.
Das Moselschloesschen (Traben-Trabach, Mosel): dining outside in the summer in the attractive wine/beer garden by the river is thoroughly enjoyable. The food is solid rather than great, and the wine list of moderate size but well priced. A relaxing place to dine, with good service. June 2021.
Das Ochs (Bernkastel, Mosel): is housed in an old butchery, inside a modest hotel, the Burgblick. Food is classic to the region - a little heavy - and there are many good wines. Sept 2019.
Hermmanshole Weck (Oberhäusen an der Nahe, Nahe): is a very good restaurant for this sleepy town, famous only for being the home of great Nahe producer, Dönnhoff. Sept 2019 and July 2023.
Krüger-Rumpf (Münster Sarmsheim, Nahe): the family restaurant at this excellent Nahe estate is a very good option, and far superior to anything in adjacent Bingen. Family wines only, but that’s no bad thing here. Sept 2019.
Zum Krug (Eltville, Rheingau): this wood-panelled restaurant is the legendary place in the Rheingau for older wines. The food is fine; classic German. But the (all Rheingau) wine list is the strong point, with many wines by the glass and a large range of older wines by the bottle. July 2023. Also recommended by winemakers in the same village but not visited: Die Adler Wirtschaft and Kronenschlösschen.
Ladendorfs (Mainz): the most eccentric wine bar experience you will ever have, but possibly one of the best too. Roland Ladendorf knows everything about German wine, and has brilliant and mature bottles available. I would say on his list, but in reality, the list (and prices) are in his head. If you have to ask…The food? Hearty Würst (sausage), potato salad and cheeses. Told you it was eccentric. July 2023.
Steinheuer Zur Alten Post (Heppingen, Ahr): a wonderful two star Michelin restaurant in the Ahr. The service is delightful and all handled by family members, with the charm that brings. The food is superb, the cheese cart spectacular, and the wine list extensive and well priced. Worth a special trip. Six course set menu (no wine) for around 250 euros. July 2023.
Hohenzollern (Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr): the steep drive up is well worth it for the views across the Ahr Valley from the terrace of this restaurant offering good food and an extensive wine list. June 2021 and July 2023.
Romantik Hotel Sanct Peter (Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr): well-sized rooms, moderate prices and an excellent breakfast make this is a good everyday option. The same ownership has a restaurant (not visited) 100 yards down the road.
Greece
Santorini
Selene run by sommelier Georgia Tsara is the best place to drink wine on the island, and the most ambitious restaurant. The restaurant is Michelin-style food with a wonderful terrace and view. However, for me, the most enjoyable option is the relaxed wine bar downstairs where the food is delicious and the wine choices excellent. June 2019.
Roka in Oia is homely and with excellent food in a town that usually offers tourist-fare. A lovely spot. June 2019.
To Psaraki in Vlichada occupies a gorgeous spot above the small harbour. Food is excellent taverna fare, with deliciously fresh fish. This is a perfect lunch spot. The beaches around here are some of the quietest on the island. June 2019.
Rhodes
10GR Wine Bar in the middle of the old town is the best place to drink wine on the island. Owner Kosmas Sarkinis promotes the best wines from the island as well as numerous others from around Greece. Simple but very well executed local dishes. July 2021.
Piatakia on the second floor in the new town is a wonderful experience of perfectly presented, fresh local food. When I went, the price for the excellent 11 course tasting menu was 24 euros - crazy! July 2021.
Nissyros
The best restaurants on the island are: Geusea (creative seafood, in a wonderful seafront location in Mandraki); Apololi Kori (north African influenced fare in a quiet courtyard with kind service, Mandraki); Adrioti Meating (sister restaurant of Geusea, this is the meat place. Spectacular views towards Tilos; Nikia) and Apyria (classic Greek island town square dining in Emborios, led from the front by charismatic, charming owner Triantfillyou. Expect to leave with new friends). All July 2021.
Paros
All visited in June 2024: Koukos (Naousa) is a simple but friendly wine/cocktail bar with dogs and a view full of interest over the lively harbour and nightlife; Yemeni (Naousa) has an interesting list but is the middle of the chaotic, crowded tourist streets and cannot really be considered relaxing; Julia (Drios) is classic taverna, with exceptionally good quality ingredients, in a wonderful beachside location (some patrons were taking a swim between dishes); Thalami (Ampelas) is a great fish taverna, mostly populated by locals and with a stunning view to the twinkling lights of Naxos over the water; Katsouas (Santa Maria) is worth a visit in the far north east of the island; although in an isolated location with no views, the food and service are worth the trip; Kastro Art Lounge Bistrot (Parikia) offers unmatched sunset views for a pre-dinner cocktail, just make sure to walk all the way up to the top floor.
Sifnos
All visited in June 2024: Loggia Wine Bar must have one of the great locations of any wine bar, and the wines by the glass are interesting. The vegan bites leave something to be desired. Reservations are essential, as is a visit if you are ever on the island. Omega 3 is by far the best restaurant on the island, with ambitious dishes well executed and a dedicated and superb sommelier and wine list. Drimoni has stunning views with decent food and wine. To Kelari is a simple but charming, homely taverna with a meat focus. Cosi is the nightlife location. You can’t really go wrong with any of the fish tavernas on the island.
Athens
Athens has numerous great wine venues, all staffed with (frankly) over-qualified staff to help, so be sure to ask for help. In addition, the quality of the food at the wine bars is exceptionally high, and in many cases, ambitious.
The two best venues for my money are Oinoscent, which changes its by the glass wines every 10 days, and has a terrace full of interesting local patrons. It is essential to visit the cellar and pick a bottle if you are not drinking by the glass; there is no cellar list, but suffice to say there are many Greek and international gems; and Vintage, which claims to have more wines by the glass than any other restaurant worldwide (600+). The list is spectacular, with ample old vintages of both Greek and international wines. Note this is much more a restaurant than a wine bar. (Both visited June 2024)
Also of note: Heteroclito, in a busy central location features natural wines by the glass and some well priced classics by the bottle; By the Glass, for solid food and pleasant outdoor seating; Warehouse CO2, all sparkling wines, for an aperitif; adjacent Drunky Goat is not recommended; Monk has a pleasant rooftop space but the wine choices are limited, and it is more of a cocktail venue. (All June 2024)
Portugal
Lisbon
Patio Antico in Paco de Arcos is a gloriously understated spot for outstanding Neapolitan fare, from a gifted chef. Worth the trip out of the centre, and your Uber fare will be more expensive than lunch. August 2020, August 2021 and July 2022 and July 2023.
Sala de Joao Sa in central Lisbon is top quality, ambitious, international, precisely flavoured food at costs a third of that of New York or London. April 2019.
Taberna do Calhau is a gem of a place; a tiny restaurant led by a wine-obssessed chef. Let him bring you the dishes he thinks best and you will have a wonderful experience of Portuguese wine, food and gracious hospitality. July 2021.
Solar dos Presuntos is a Lisbon institution. The town house offers multiple floors of unpretentious and extremely rewarding dining. The seafood is among the best in the city and is amazingly fresh. Reserve well in advance. July 2022.
Faz Frio is conveniently located near one of the high points of the city where many tourists end up. It offers high end cooking with moderately expensive prices for Lisbon. The atmosphere, though, is relaxed and enjoyable. Recommended if you are in that part of town. No reservations. July 2022.
Comida Independente is a very good wine store (with a leaning towards low intervention wines) and purveyor of exccellent local foods. July 2023.
Lagar do Xisto: a totally understated gem of a restaurant in a slightly shabby setting. In the area of the town home to international hotel chains, the kitchen here turns out remarkably authentic, delicious, moreish Portuguese food. If going in the summer, go after 8pm, when the big tables of American tourists from the nearby hotels have generally moved on. Wines are cheap. July 2023.
Porto and Douro
The Yeatman in Vila Nova de Gaia is the best place to stay in Porto. All the rooms have spectacular views of Porto, on the opposite side of the river. There is a two star Michelin restaurant (tasting menu 180e) as well as a bar for more casual food. One of the best wine selections in the country: if you can think of a Portuguese wine, they probably have it. August 2021.
The Vintage House in Pinhão, is a very comfortable place to stay in the heart of the Douro Valley. Breakfast is excellent, served on the spectacular terrace overlooking the river. The restaurant was excellent when we were there; the wine list extensive. A place that makes it easy to stay rather than to venture further afield for meals. August 2021.
Algarve
Vila Aldentro is your best option in central Faro; and worth the trip for the cataplanas - the traditional Algarve seafood stew, to be shared between two. August 2020.
Luar da Foia is out of the way, close to the summit of Algarve’s highest mountain, near Monchique. But it’s more than worth the trip, for the best possible form of country fare: hearty, meaty dishes (which can be a nice change from the seafood more typical of Algarve) but made with exquisite freshness and local flavour. Consult with the waiter about wine - the choice is not huge, but there are not many bad options. August 2020.
Fabrica do Costa is by the beach near the little, old village of Cacela Velha, near Tavira. This is the perfect vacation stop: wonderful views over the water, superbly fresh, deliciously prepared seafood, and a nice and very cheap wine list. Perfect and joyful! You must be either going to or from the beach. August 2020.
Spain
Santiago de Compostela
Parador Hostal dos Reis Catolicos is the most famous hotel in Santiago and for good reason: its spectacular situation on the cathedral square. The 500 year old building is a treat for the eyes. Rooms are small but with modern bathrooms. There are a couple of restaurants serving decent local fare, although the wine lists are limited. Worth staying here for the experience and the location rather than because it’s a great hotel - it’s not, but it is very memorable.
United States
New York City
Vini e Fritti, on East 30th Street, inside the Ledbury Hotel. Some still wines are served, but the focus is on the outstanding champagne list. Almost all grower champagne, for remarkably fair prices (and tip is included). Light food available in the form of Roman style fritti - fried fish and vegetables. If you’re still hungry, wander along the corridor to sister restaurant Marta for some of New York’s best pizza. Note: reservations almost always required at Marta, but not at Vini e Fritti, although it does get a busy with the after work crowd. Quieter later in the evening. Jan 2019.
del Posto. This temple to classic Italian dining shows no signs of letting its standards slip. Be prepared for a long meal - your options are either a five course tasting menu ($164 at time of writing) which includes some choices made by each diner; or the eight course tasting menu chosen by the chef ($195). Either way, the food is an Italian dream: crunchy, al dente pasta, rich tomato reductions, excellent meat. For the quality, the prices are very fair. The excellent all Italian wine list (with the exception of the champagne) is full of the best producers and vintages for remarkably fair prices. Do not sleep on the grower champagne selection, which is excellent and underpriced. March 2019.
The Modern. In the Museum of Modern Art, this is one of the city’s best lunch spots, on account of its sunny view over the museum’s garden. And the food is is outstanding: complex, refined, irresistible. The service is top quality, and the wine list excellent. The Burgundy section in particular is very strong, with really quite fair prices for many of the top producers. January 2020.
The Bar Room at The Modern. You dine à la carte in the Bar Room (whereas The Modern itself is a set menu). The food is really outstanding. Precise, clean flavours which blend so beautifully. The lunch menu is an extremely fair $70 (tiping inclusive). The wine list is one of the best in the city, particularly for Burgundy and Australian wines. March 2019.
Manhatta. A solid wine list and decent but not particularly memorable food pale by comparison to the setting of this perfect date spot restaurant, perched high above downtown Manhattan. Worth a visit just for that. Summer 2019.
Jean-Georges. Not many places can beat J-G for lunch in my opinion. The beautiful dining room, framed by foliage outside and with a view of Central Park, is one of New York’s most enjoyable places to dine. And then the food - with top quality ingredients and inspired execution, every mouthful can be a joy. Wine list is very solid, with good Burgundy options. October 2019.
Cosme. Come here for inspired Mexican cuisine which seems to burst with flavour. Perhaps just due to abundant use of citrus, but each dish seems so incredibly light and vibrant. This is pure joy! Downside: the heavily natural wine list. My wine by the glass was faulty (mousy) and I sent it back. December 2019.
Marea. Best known for its impeccable seafood, the pasta here is equally fantastic (try the fusili). It can be a little crowded and bustling, but in a great location by the park, it’s a must-try. November 2019.
United Kingdom
London
Claridge’s. The famous hotel has a range of dining options, but the focal point is the Reading Room, in the main foyer. The food is excellent and consistent. The wine list overprices the famous names but there is plenty of value elsewhere, with back vintages available. The full wine list is also available to choose from in the famous bar (reservations essential), where Champagne is well priced. Also note the wine store in the hotel, which has mature vintages for fair prices. December 2022.
110 de Taillevent. A wonderful option for wine lovers and others too, because the food is excellent. The focal point, however, will always be the 110 wines by the glass, many with age, at very attractive prices. Also a very good wine list by the bottle (they mature their wines before putting them on sale in the old bank vault below the restaurant). December 2022.
Chez Bruce. A thrilling restaurant, with stunning, exciting food and a wonderful wine list full of mature wines for low prices. Hard to beat! Should be on everyone’s itinerary and well worth the trip from the centre of town.
La Cabotte. In an unexpected corner of the City, Cabotte is a Burgundy-focused restaurant and this is the principal reason to go. The food is very good without being anything exceptional, but the wine list is impressive. Service a little slow and chaotic when we were there. December 2022.
Hide. This large space on Piccadilly is the sister business to London’s best wine store, Hedonism. A fun option is to go into Hedonism earlier in the day and select your wines for dinner, which they will then deliver to the restaurant. The food is wonderful, and the bar downstairs a great space for an after-dinner drink. This is such a complete and enjoyable experience. December 2022.
Kent
The Fordwich Arms. Canterbury, Kent. Barely a year old and having already earned its first Michelin star, you should RUN NOT WALK to this pub/fine dining restaurant. Set menus are available at 65 and 85GBP and the food is wonderfully innovative, with beautiful and unexpected combinations eliciting fantastic results. The wine list is not extensive but you will find something appropriate (albeit from a recent vintage). A wonderful spot that more than rivals other local favourite, The Sportsman. Feb 2019.
The Sportsman. Near Whitstable, Kent. Now famous, it’s still possible to get tables within a month or two’s notice for weeknights (longer for weekends). A homely, relaxed pub environment belies the outstanding quality of the food, particularly the fresh fish and lamb. Wine list is compact and unpretentious and has few bottles over 60 GBP. Ask about corkage when making the reservation. June 2019.
Barbados
The Tides in Holetown. On the beautiful, serene west coast of the island, go here not for the wine list (forgettable) or even the food, which is good if not unduly memorable, but for the location: spectacularly sited right above the beach. It’s wonderful with a cool breeze at night, or with the views of the turquoise waters by day. Jan 2019.